Top Cities

• PHNOM PENH
  

  Founded in the mid-14th century by the Khmers as a monastery, Phnom Penh replaced Angkor Thom a century later as the country's capital. Perhaps the name doesn’t mean much to worldwide travelers but with the glimmering spires of the royal palace, the fluttering saffron of the monks’ robes, and the luscious location on the banks of the mighty Mekong, this is one of Asia’s undiscovered gems. This classic city is now on the move and expects to attract more tourists from across the globe which possibly changes the character of its own. Come what may, the city will never fail to captivate.
  
  Things to do in Phnom Penh:
  •    Hash House Harriers. A running club that meets every Sunday at 14.15 at the railway station.
  •    Visit an Orphanage. Frequently visited by foreigners wanting to help out with time, money, food, school books, etc. Be aware that orphanages may be exploitative and poorly run - your money may go to the owner rather than the kids. If you really want to help, try contacting organizations that run educational programs, and see if there is anything you can assist.
  •    Meta House Films, opposite Wat Botum. Art gallery, bar, mini-cinema and production house. Shows free, high quality foreign and Cambodian films Tuesday to Sunday nights at 7PM, in the bar-lounge on the roof.  
  •    French Cultural Centre movies. Less English subtitles than there once were, plus an incomprehensible schedule and website (even the CCF staff can't decipher them), have now put these excellent movies out of reach of all but the most determined Anglophone.
  •    Thunder Ranch Shooting Range, (near Killing Fields of Cheoung Ek). Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case.
  •    Shopping: Most manufactured goods you buy in Cambodia will be of dubious quality: this especially applies to electronic goods of any kind. At least a third of anything electronic will cease to work within days, if it ever does. Handmade goods (shoes and silks for example) are generally of good quality.
  o    Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games.
  o    Sorya Mall, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colorful than the traditional markets, but it is air-conditioned and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket named Lucky Supermarket.
  o    City Mall was opened in September 2009, making it the newest and biggest western-style mall in Phnom Penh. It can be found on Monireth Boulevard near the Olympic Stadium. The mall contains a large branch of Lucky Supermarket, as well as many fast-food outlets and modern shops, mainly catering to Phnom Penh's growing middle-class population.
  o    Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung") offers the opportunity to buy REAL designer clothes at a huge discount price. A lot of the factories for Levi's, CK, Ralph Lauren and many other brands are in Phnom Pehn, however a lot of the clothes sold here are deemed unfit to be shipped abroad due to very small fault in the clothing which a majority of people wouldn't even notice, therefore they are sold at the Russian market. You can also purchase fake Swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.
   
  Where to go in Phnom Penh:

  • Wat Phnom is Cambodia's ‘Church on the Hill’. Legend has it that sometime in the 14th century, a woman named Penh found sacred Buddhist objects in the nearby river and placed them here on the small hill that later became a temple. The temple itself is a standard Southeast Asian wat, with Naga snakes on the cornered peaks of the roof and didactic murals of the Buddha's life done in Day-Glo allegories along interior walls. Don't miss the central ceiling, which, unlike the bright walls, is yet to be restored and is gritty and authentic. The hillside park around the temple was once a no-go zone peopled by armed dealers and pimps, and in the evening you should still be careful, but now it's a laid-back little park.
  • Independence Monument Built in the late 1950s to commemorate Cambodia's independence from the French on 9 November 1953, this towering obelisk is crowned with Khmer Nagas and is reminiscent of Angkor architecture and Hindu influence. The area is at its most majestic when all lit up at night.
  • National Museum This important storehouse holds artifacts and statuary from all regions of Cambodia as well as a beautiful and informative collection of Khmer pieces. From the entrance, begin on your left with a room of small pre-historical artifacts. A clockwise loop around the central courtyard walks you through time, from static, stylized pieces of stiff-legged, standing Buddhas, to contra-posed and contorted forms in supplication. There are good accompanying descriptions in English, but this is not a bad place to have a knowledgeable local guide.
  • Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are the two ‘must see’ spots. Built in the late 1860s under the reign of Norodom, the sight is comprised of many elaborate gilded halls, all with steep tile roofs, stupa-shape cupolas, and golden temple nagasdenoting prosperity. The grand Throne Hall at the center is the coronation site for Khmer kings and the largest gilded cathedral in the country. The French built a small exhibition hall on the temple grounds, a building that now houses the many gifts given to the monarchy, among them cross-stitch portraits of the royal family and all manner of bric-a-brac.
  • The Silver Pagoda is just south of the palace. The floors of this grand temple are covered with 5,000 blocks of silver weighing more than 6 tons. The temple houses a 17th-century Buddha made of Baccarat crystal, and another made almost entirely of gold and decorated with almost 10,000 diamonds. That's not exactly what the Buddha had in mind perhaps, but it's quite beautiful. The temple courtyard is encircled by a covered walkway with a contiguous mural of Cambodia's history and mythology. On the southern end of the complex is a small hill covered in vegetation. There's a large Buddha footprint and a small temple that provokes very devout practice in Khmer visitors.
  • The Killing Fields and Choeung Ek Memorial Originally a Chinese cemetery before becoming the execution grounds for the Khmer Rouge during their maniacal reign under Pol Pot from 1975 to 1979, the site is a collection of mounds, mass graves, and a towering monument of catalogued human skulls. The monument is 17 stories high, reminding visitors of April 17, 1975, the day the Khmer Rouge took over Cambodia. As a sign of respect, you take your shoes off before mounting the steps to view the monument up close. Human skulls, arranged by age and gender, are arranged at eye level, while other bones are placed on higher levels. The Killing Fields are often visited in conjunction with a tour of Tuol Sleng.
  • Toul Sleng, Museum of Genocide Was formerly a high school with the grounds being just as they were in 1979 at the end of Cambodia's bloody genocide. During the violent recent history in Cambodia, the two-story compound became one of the most notorious concentration camps, essentially a torture chamber before people were slaughtered in the Killing Fields. A visit here is a visceral revisit of some horrible events, too much for some visitors. From 1975 until 1979, an estimated 17,000 political prisoners, most just ordinary citizens, were tortured at Tuol Sleng and died, or were executed in the nearby Killing Fields. If you don't come with a guide, you'll certainly want to hire one at the entrance, although you're free to roam the grounds on your own. There are some written accounts in English, paintings done by a survivor, and gory photos of the common torture practices in the prison, but perhaps what is most haunting is the fear in the eyes of the newly arrived; one wing of the buildings is dedicated to these very arrival photos. This sight is a bit overwhelming, so be prepared.
  • Central Market Built in 1937, this is a city landmark and, on any given day, a veritable anthill of activity. The building is a towering rotunda with busy wings extending in four directions. The eastern entrance is the best spot to find T-shirts, hats, and all manner of trinkets and souvenirs, as well as photocopied bootlegs of popular novels and books on Cambodia. Goldsmiths and watch-repair and -sales counters predominate in the main rotunda, and you can find some good deals. Spend some time wandering the nooks and crannies, though, and you're sure to come across something that strikes your fancy, whether that's a chaotic hardware shop, a cobbler hard at work with an awl, or just the cacophony and carnival-barker shouts of salesmen and haggling shoppers. Be sure to bargain for any purchase. The Russian Market in the south end of town is comparable and equally worth a visit.

   
  How to go to and in Phnom Penh:
  By Air: All major airlines in the region connect here. Vietnam Airlines runs daily flights from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.Pochentong Airport is just a 15-minute drive from the city center and a cab costs around $7, a ride on the back of a motorbike just $2. Buy tickets from the taxi stand outside the departure terminal under the archway to your left.
  By Boat: Speedboats connect with Phnom Pehn with Siem Reap and leave every morning from the main dock on the north end of town. Tickets are available just about anywhere in town. The price is $25 from most hotels or the Capitol Guesthouse.
  By Bus: Phnom Pehn is a hub for buses throughout the country. A tourist bus to Siem Reap takes 6 to 7 hours and costs $5.
  
  Getting Around
  Phnom Penh's downtown is accessible on foot, and it's easy to find your way because the streets are arranged in a numbered grid. For sites farther afield, like The Killing Fields or any temples, you'll need wheels. Metered taxis are everywhere in town.Motorcycle taxis (called motodups), can be hired anywhere and cost about $1 for short trips in town.
  
  Best time to visit
  The city temperatures range from 15° to 38 °C and experiences tropical monsoons. Monsoons blow from the Southwest inland, bringing moisture-laden winds from the Gulf of Thailand and Indian Ocean from May to October. The northeast monsoon ushers in the dry season, which lasts from November to March. The city experiences the heaviest precipitation from September to October with the driest period occurring from January to February.
   
• SIEM REAP
  

  The ruins of the ancient city of Angkor are destined for great things and one of the world's marvels. The ‘City of Kings’ boasts some of the largest religious monuments ever constructed which is a vast and mysterious complex of hulking laterite and sandstone blocks. Unknown to the world until French naturalist Henri Mouhot literally stumbled onto it in 1861, the area of Angkor existed for centuries only as a myth. Today more guesthouses, hotels and world-class wining and dining and sumptuous spas are blossoming in town catering for all travel needs.
  
  Things to do in Siem Reap:
  •    Army Shooting Range, (near Banteay Srey and Kbeal Span). Listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip. This is a true game of Russian roulette. Make sure that whoever is supervising you is also willing to stand next to you.
  •    Cambodian Village Trips: A unique insider look to a real Cambodian life. Spend time with village kids at their school, harvest or plant some corn, and interact with villagers.
  •    Cooking Classes: Several restaurants throughout the city offer courses on Khmer cooking.  Paul Dubrule School of Hotel and Tourism, (National Road #6). The school itself offers high-quality hospitality training to underprivileged Cambodians, who receive scholarships. Definitely pricier than elsewhere, but the attention to detail, cleanliness and comfort are unparalleled.
  •    Massage: Several Khmer massage parlors can be found in Siem Reap. Unlike those in Bangkok, these are generally genuine massage parlors and not a front for sexual services. The Khmers believe that the Thai massage is derived from Khmer massage which is just as relaxing and requires less twisting and turning.
  •    Theatrical Dances at Apsara Theatre: The only air-con theatre in town presents various traditional popular and classical dances and serves a set of local specialties.
  •    Visit an Orphanage. The Sangkheum Center for Children, Chey Village, Siem Reap. Children's center for orphaned, abused or neglected Cambodian Children. Buy some rice, T-shirts, school supplies, or other gifts, and go out to the children's center for a look at the welcoming village-like setting. The center serves about 50 residential children, and 50 daytime students in the community who are determined to be most in need.
  •    Eating: There are hundreds of restaurants in Siem Reap and you will have no trouble finding something which suits your tastes and budget. Pub Street is best known as a watering hole, but it has also many nice restaurants that won't break the bank. In town, there are entire streets catering for the traveler tastes with pizzas, hamburgers, and tasty westernised versions of Cambodian food such as Amok and 'Khmer curry'.
   
  Where to go in Siem Reap:
  •    Angkor Wat The symbol of Cambodia, the five spires of the main temple of Angkor are known the world over. In fact, this is the one certainly not to be missed even in the most perfunctory of tours.
  •    Built under the reign of Suryavarman II in the 12th century, this temple, along with Bayon and Baphuon, is the very pinnacle of Khmer architecture and is the only temple entered from the west (all others from the east). Angkor Wat is also the only Angkormonument that is a mausoleum while all the others are temples or monasteries. Angkor's main temple is dedicated to Vishnu.
  •    Angkor Wat is the first temple you pass when entering the temple complex, but depending on your guide, you might save it for the evening and head directly to nearby Angkor Thom.
  •    Wangkor Thom means ‘the great city’ in Khmer and is famed for its fantastic 45m central temple, Bayon and nearby Baphuon. The vast area of Angkor Thom, over a mile on one side, is dotted with many temples and features; don't miss the elaborate relieves on the Bayon's first floor gallery or of the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of Elephants. The Angkor Thom Gates, particularly the south gate, are good examples of the angelic carving of the Jayavarman head, a motif you will find throughout the temple sites. The bridge spanning the moat before the south entrance is lined with the gods and monsters said to have been in competition to churn the proverbial sea of milk that would cause creation of the world. The line of statues with the gate in the background is a classic Angkor scene.
  •    The Bayon is the very centerpiece of the larger Angkor Thom city, and with its classic carved faces is one of the best loved of the Angkor temples. Bayon is a Buddhist temple built under the reign of prolific Jayavarman VII (1190 A.D.), but the temple was built atop a previous Hindu site and adheres to Hindu cosmology and, with its central tower depicting Meru and its oceanic moat, can be read as a metaphor for the natural world. The Bayon is famous for its huge stone faces, usually set in groups of four around a central prang, or tower, and each face indicating an ordinal direction on the compass. The curious smiling faces are done in deep relief at Bayon and also in different forms at the entrance gates to Angkor Thom, at Ta Prom, and Banteay Kdei. You approach the Bayon along a forested area at the city center, cool and misty, where streams of light come through in visible rays and the drone of cicadas is deafening. Elephant trekkers also line the road to the temple.
  •    One of the greatest views of the many faces of the Bayon is from the ground at the northern end of the temples, just before a large snack, refreshment, and shopping area.
  •    The Terrace of Leper King Built by Jayavarman, this section is the northern half of a long north-south shelf of what was supposedly a main viewing stage for the king and his entourage to watch elaborate shows in the open area out front. Approach the terrace from its most northern point. Outside, you'll find an image of the guardian of hell because the area site was a crematorium. The top of the terrace is a statue of the king with leprosy. The long terrace is made of two walls and visitors pass through a shaded walkway on the interior. The whole site is lined with rich relief carving and has been lovingly restored and propped up with new concrete wall that maintains the integrity of the original.
  •    Kabal Spean Known as the ‘River of a Thousand Linga’, Kabal Spean lay undiscovered by Westerners until a French researcher stumbled across it only recently. Dating from the early 11th century, the relief carvings that line the stream beds are said to purify the water before it fills the reservoirs of Angkor. It's the journey here that's really interesting, on some rough roads through rural villages north of Banteay Srei and there's a fun forest hike (about 30 min).
  •    Beng Melea is located 60km east of Siem Reap and often arranged as a day trip after a stop at the Roluos Group. The road is paved and smooth until just after the Roluos Group where you turn north at the town of Dom Dek, which has a local market that's worth a stop. From there, follow a dusty, bumpy road. The temple has three gallery walls and a moat at entry. The interior temple area is a big, fun pile of rubble, great for trouncing around. The east entrance is closed because of the many rocks fallen here, but enter just to the right of this main entrance and look for the relief images of the god of fire over the first door as you approach the gallery by the first ramp, then an image of a three-headed elephant born of the mythical churning of the ocean of milk Hindu creation legend. A small library is inside this first gallery area. From here, plunge into the temple center. The platform path takes you through a covered, dark gallery. Between sections, you'll have to do some clambering and rock hopping.
  •    Bakeng Hill Just past Angkor Wat, Bakeng Hill is meant to resemble Mount Meru, the center of the earth in the Hindu cosmology. The hill makes a great spot for sunrise or sunset viewing and gets crowded like a mosh pit in high season. The hike up is a good way to limber up and break a sweat predawn, but the crumbled steps and slippery mud are a bit much for some. Consider taking the trek in style high up on an elephant's back in a houda. Elephants for hire start at about $20 and wait at the bottom of the hill.
  •    Banteay Srei If you are true temple buffs, you will never want to miss this distinct complex. Some 32km north of the main temples, the 10th-century buildings of Banteay Srei are done in a style unique to the high spires of Angkor. The collection of low walls surrounds low-rise peaked structures of deep red sandstone. It is the only building to have been built with pink sandstone, a high quality mineral that can withstand tougher elements. As such, the carvings and bas reliefs on this temple are some of the most intricate, best preserved carvings you'll find in Angkor. The hallmarks of the temple are the three temples, the middle one is dedicated to Shiva and it is flanked by temples honoring Vishnu and Brahma. A knowledgeable local guide will help explain the finer details of temple inscriptions.
  •    Ta Prohm is a favorite for many; in fact, those very ruinous vines appeal to most. As large around as oak trees, the Khmer Spoong tree is something like a banyan tree, and it's often encased in the wandering tendrils of the charay, a thick vine. The powerful Spoong and the charay vines cleave massive stones in two or give way and grow over the top of temple ramparts. It's quite dynamic, and there are a few popular photo spots where the collision of temple and vine are most impressive. The temple was originally built in 1186 by Jayavarman VII as a monastery dedicated to the king's mother and spiritual teacher. There are 39 towers connected by numerous galleries. The exterior wall of the compound is 1kmx600m, and entrance gates have the classic Jayavarman face. Most visitors enter from the west gate and some drivers will come and pick you up on the other side. A line of small open-air eateries is just outside the main entrance to Ta Prohm, popular places for a snack or lunch.
  •    Vimean Akhar Continuing north of the Baphuon and still within the large Angkor Thom, you reach the ‘Palace of Air’ or Vimean Akhar, which was a royal palace built by three successive kings, Jayavarman II and V as well as Suryavarman I, over a period of time from 944 to 1045. This Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva is some 12m high with three levels; each of the three levels represents one of the kings who helped build it. Each side has steep steps and the shallow moat is full in rainy season. The top of the temple is a narrow pillared gallery. The steep climb is best attempted to the left (west) when approaching from the Baphuon (there's a handrail). Have a drink or a fresh coconut in a shaded area at the bottom of the other side.
  •    Adjacent to the Baphuon are two large ponds: the biggest is 125m long and was where the king himself bathed; the smaller ponds were for the king's courtiers.
  •    Pre Rup With its three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat. Pre Rup was built by King Rajeindravarmen II in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. The best views are from the Hindu temple's south side. It is made of gray sandstone, which is a less durable material than the pink sandstone of Banteay Srei. Climb to the top of the temple and look west; on a clear day, you can see Angkor Wat's spires (roughly 12km away) peeking out over the treetops.
  •    Ta Kaeo What's most interesting about Ta Kaeo is that it was never completed. Legend has it that the temple was struck by lightning during its construction, and all work was abandoned at a stage where the main structure was complete, but no adornment had been added. Also unique is the fact that Ta Kaeo is made of rich green sandstone. Built in the 10th century by Jayavarman V, the temple was dedicated to Shiva. The central prang once housed a lingum, and the three levels are all encircled by sandstone galleries. The climb to the top is very steep but the view is well worth it.
  •    The Elephant Terrace Located in the south end of a long performance terrace of the king, so named because of its elaborate reliefs of elephants, whose trunks make decorative columns. The long concourse depicts scenes of circus acrobats, wrestlers, and images of hunting elephants in the wild.
  •    Banteay Kdei The first temple built by Jayavarman VII in 1181, Banteay Kdei is just opposite the large Sra Serang Reservoir, a lovely lily pond that is 300mx700m and surrounded by sandstone steps of Khmer Vintage. The reservoir is a popular place to watch the sunset gleaming off the water's surface. Sra Serang once housed a small island temple where the king liked to meditate, now local folks bathe here or steer the water to local rice farms. The four gates of Banteay Kdei have Jayavarman's iconic smiling face like those at the famed Bayon. The east entrance brings you past an area lined with lions and nagas along an open terrace once used for performances. There's a moat around the second interior gate. The Buddha at the entrance is an original, intact statue, quite unique to the Angkor compound where so many pieces have been stolen or destroyed.
  •    Land Mines Museum You won't find signs leading you to this seemingly impromptu museum. The museum itself is just a corrugated-roof area stacked high with disarmed ordnance and detailed data about the use, effects, and statistics about unexploded ordinance in the country. Most interesting is the small grove out back, an exhibit of how mines are placed in a real jungle setting.
   
  
  How to go to and in Siem Reap:
  •    By Plane: Siem Reap Airways, Royal Phnom Penh Airways , President Airlines and Bangkok Air all fly the 1-hour connection to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh.
  •    If you just want to see the great temples at Angkor, the process is simplified with international arrivals: Vietnam Airlines flies directly from Ho Chi Minh City, Bangkok Airways flies directly from Bangkok, and you can check flights by Silk Air, Lao Aviation, and Royal Cambodge Airline for other routes.
  •    By Boat: A ride on the 5-hour boat connection between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap costs about $25. The scenic trip connects to Siem Reap via the great Tonle Sap Lake. Siem Reap also connects with Battambang, to the south and west, via the Tonle Sap and the Sangker River. The trip shows you life in fishing villages along the river as you trace the banks of the Sangker. In the rainy season, the ride is just 4 hours, but in the dry season (Feb-May) it can take 6 hours or more.
  •    A new option is the weeklong cruise between Angkor Wat and either Can Tho or My Tho in Vietnam's Mekong Delta aboard one of the luxury, shallow draft Pandaw Cruise Boats.
  •    By Bus: Daily minivans run along the improved road between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap ($5 for the 5-hr. ride) as well as destinations farther afield like Battambang or on to Poipet at the Thai border.
  
  Getting Around
  You'll need some kind of wheels to make your way around Siem Reap and to and from the temples.
  •    A rented car with driver is about $25. Tuk-tuks are the best choice and available anywhere. Siem Reap's tuk-tuks are a two-wheeled surrey pulled by a standard motorbike. They are shaded, and the padded seat is great for two. There's a small shelf at the front of the cart, usually with laminated maps and advertisements, and, in a pinch, you can seat two more, but it's not very comfy. Pay just $10 for the whole day.
  •    A motorcycle taxi, called a motodup throughout Cambodia, is a good, cheap option for between $6 and $8 per day. Helmets are generally available, though few wear them. This is a good choice for solo travelers going to the temples without a guide. For sights farther afield, it can be a bit tiring. If going way out, ask for a helmet with a wind screen as it saves a day of squinting and is the safest choice.
  
  Best time to visit
  November to February is cool and dry with the day temperatures somewhere between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius. During these months it can get quite cool in the evenings, but during the day it is still quite hot. December, January and February are the peak high season and this is the best time to see Angkor when the skies are normally clear with perfect sunrises and sunsets. If you are getting up for sunrise during these months you will probably need a heavier piece of clothing, especially if you are going on a tuk tuk. There is very little rain during these months, but when there is it is usually in either January or February. The humidity is quite low around 50% during the day, but in the evening it often increases to about 80%, especially in February.
  Siem Reap is hot and dry in March, April and May with day temperatures between 28 and 38 degrees Celsius. June, July and August are hot and wet with day temperatures between 28 and 38 degrees Celsius. September to October is cool and wet with day temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius. These are the wettest months of the year with wet and cold weather.
• BATTAMBANG
  

  The west of Cambodia is made for hearty travelers, a place to get off the track if you have the gumption. This Cambodia’s second-largest city is an elegant riverside town which is home to some of the best-preserved French-style architectures in the country with welcoming and friendly inhabitants. The city itself is developing fast but timeless hilltop temples and scenic villages can be seen on leisurely day-trips offering a glimpse into the daily rhythms of rural Cambodia.
  
  Things to do in Battambang:
  •    Take a ride on the bamboo train with a visit of the countryside.
  •    Take a motorbike trip around the countryside and visit some nice temples and enjoy the views.
  •    Wander around the market and sample local dishes.
  •    Take the cooking class at The Smoking Pot. Highly recommended by locals.
  •    Take a cooking course in a family house at Ch'Ngainh! Ch'Ngainh! (Meaning "Delicious"!). After doing shopping at the local market, go to a famillial house where the very charming couple helps you cook some delicious Khmer dishes. For a few bucks, you have a cooking lesson, marvelous time with those charming persons, a cooking book, a very good dinner and maybe some snake wine to drink!
  •    Nary Kitchen, Svay Por Battambang. A Brand new cooking class and the Cheapest in town. Using local ingredients to make your own delicious Khmer meal. Who can cook better than yourself ay? One block back from the Royal Hotel.
   
  Where to go in Battambang:
  •    Wat Phnom Sampeou Built in 1964, Wat Sampeou is a dynamic little hilltop temple, its towers jutting out of the top of a steep hill, one of the only high points in a wide, flat plain. The temple is best known as Battambang's ‘Killing Fields’, like Choeung Ek outside of Phnom Penh, where thousands of concentration-camp victims of the Khmer Rouge were killed. At Sampeou, victims were slaughtered and thrown into deep caves, two of which now house small temples and monuments. A visit here follows a circuit, first to the caves and a small temple that was once the prison building of the concentration camp here, then to the nearby hilltop temple. The temple itself is not incredibly interesting, just a few spires and some shaded meditation areas and statuary, but the views across the plain are stunning and the monks are quite friendly and talkative. The path then leads back down a steep path to the entrance.
  •    Battambang Museum Two elegant avenues, with parkland down the middle, grace the city centre. One goes by the Centre Culturel Français, while the other stretches west from the worthwhile Battambang Museum. Highlights include fine Angkorian lintels and statuary from all over Battambang Province, including Phnom Banan and Sneng. Signs are available in Khmer, English and French.
  •    Colonial buildings Much of Battambang's special charm lies in its early-20th-century French architecture. Some of the finest colonial buildings are along the waterfront, especially along the two blocks of St 1 south of Psar Nat, itself an architectural monument, albeit a modernist one. The four-faced clock tower is worth a look. There are also some old French shop houses along St 3, eg just east of the train station.
  •    Governor's Residence The two-storey Governor's Residence, with its balconies and wooden shutters, is another handsome legacy of very early 1900s. The interior is closed but it should be possible to stroll the grounds. Except for the neo-Khmer laterite gate, the intersection out front looks much as it did in the 1930s - check out the French-only distance marker, the neat lawns and the New Iron Bridge, now reserved for pedestrians and motorbikes.
  •    Old train station In the area around the old train station - where the time is always 8.02, according to the clock - and along the tracks just south of there, you can explore a treasure trove of crumbling, French-era repair sheds, warehouses and rolling stock, evocative of times long gone.
   
  How to go to and in Battambang:
  •    By Train: The train is a unique option in Cambodia, uniquely slow, difficult, and adventurous, and this is the best area to hop on it. With the many developments in the highway infrastructure in recent years, the railroad has become a bit of an anachronism, but there are daily connections between Battambang and Phnom Penh. It costs just $1.50 to travel between Pailin and Battambang and takes about 6 hours on a good day. It's $3 between Battambang and Phnom Penh, takes all day, and is not recommended. Trains leave in the early morning on alternate days, as the train shuttles back and forth between each destination. The Battambang station is on the north end of town, just a short walk. Trains no longer run from Battambang to Sisophon.
  •    By Bus: Daily air-conditioned tourist buses connect Battambang with Siem Reap, east to Phnom Penh via Pursat, or west to Poipet and the Thai border area via Sisophon. All buses leave in the early morning between 6 and 8am. Bus companies are near the Psah Boeung Choeuk on the east end of Battambang and most buses arrive near there.
  •    By Rented Taxi or Minivan: You can commandeer a Toyota Camry or a Japanese or Korean minivan just about anywhere in Cambodia these days; it's just a question of paying up a big fee for one-way use. Expect to pay at least $50 for a car from Siem Reap to Battambang, for example, but more common routes, from the Thai border to Siem Reap or fromPhnom Penh to Kampot or Sihanoukville in the south, come at reasonable rates of about $20 to $25 for a 3- or 4-hour cruise.
  •    By Boat: Boat connection between Battambang and Siem Reap makes for a pleasant morning when the water is high but should be avoided in dry season. Starting at the ferry docking area on the Tonle Sap nearest Siem Reap, boats depart in the early morning, from 6:30am or so, and the 4-hour trip costs $15.
  
  Getting Around:  You can walk around the town center, but for sights farther afield, hiring a motorbike taxi driver, or motodup, is the easiest and most affordable way; the downside is that short of the highways, Route 5 from Sisophon and Route 10 going to Pailin, roads are very dusty. If you do take a motorbike, be sure to bring a scarf or a Khmer-style krama or ask the driver to stop at a street-side stall to buy one.
  
  Best time to visit
  What is the best time to go in Battambang? Here is some information to help you in your decision:
  •    The best months for a good weather in Battambang are January, February, November and December
  •    On average, the warmest months are February, March, April, May and June
  •    The rainiest months are September and October
  
   
• KAMPOT & KEP
  

  The seaside resort of Kampot and Kep, famed for their spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood, were founded as a colonial retreat for the French in 1908. The two towns are some 25km apart and most choose to stay in Kampot, make a side trip to Kep, and then head up Bokor Mountain on the way to Sihanoukville. Kampot is just a quiet riverside town with views of the mountains and a lazy grid of old colonial houses. There are a few nice little hotels and little to do but wander, chat with locals and expats at cafes, and peep the sunset over Bokor.
  
  Things to do in Kep and Kampot:
  Kep's most popular tourist activity is having a fresh seafood picnic on the waterfront. The road opposite Kep Beach is lined with picnic platforms. Just rent a mat or find an empty platform and the vendors will present you fresh, sometimes still alive crabs, prawns, squid and fish from which you can choose. Be clear about how much food you want and the cost before they begin to prepare your meal. All of the other restaurants/bars in Kep are connected to the guesthouses.
  •    The Crab Market in Kep is a perfect place to get all your seafood. There are plenty of small cozy restaurants which line the shore where you can eat and drink while watching the fishermen bring in their catch. Best time to pop in is for the magnificent sunset. All the seafood is fairly fresh! Ask for the Crab Curry or for the delicious stingray!
  •    The Beach House: This restaurant offers a large selection of reasonably priced and tasty Western and Khmer food. Large range of fresh seafood. The full bar has a fantastic selection of fresh fruit juices and lots of cocktails.
  •    Vanna Bungalows: The restaurant features lovely home cooked Khmer food with a big range of seafood. Western food is also available. The large dinning area can accommodate large groups as you may come with a bunch of people starving for fresh seafood.
  •    Kep Beach Guesthouse: This place offers a smaller range of food, but has a nice surrounding as it sits right next to the shore. The food is very delicious and comes at reasonable prices. The fresh prawns with Kampot pepper is a dish you shouldn’t miss here.
  •    Star Inn: The restaurant is located opposite of the major beach just right next to all the small bamboo shacks. It features a rooftop restaurant serving Khmer and Western food including seafood. There is also a stylish separate beachfront bar overlooking Kep Beach. The prices are upscale.
  •    Shopping If you would like to shop some food, especially seafood you should head for the daily market next to the water’s edge. This is currently the only place you can find the basic needs for you household. Local shops deal the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and some packed products.
   
  Where to go in Kep and Kampot:
  •    Bokor Mountain This is the day trip from Kampot. If you've spent a long time in Cambodia, navigating overcrowdedPhnom Penh, the tourist rush in Angkor, the dusty roads and lack of infrastructure in the rest of the country, you might see why the French sought out quiet, cooler climes, building this sanctuary to privilege on a mountaintop far from the maddening crowds. Bokor Mountain is part of the larger Bokor National Park, a thick jungle sprawl of giant ferns and thick vegetation.
  •    Coconut Beach is a few hundred meters southeast of Kep Beach, just past the giant crab statue and across the NH33A from two gilded statues that locals say - with a great deal of justification - look like oversized chickens.
  •    Kep Beach, which faces south and is thus not great for sunsets, is sandy but narrow and strewn with little rocks. The eastern end of the shaded promenade is marked by a nude statue of a fisher's wife. A waterfront promenade to the Crab Market was under construction as we went to press.
  •    Kep National Park Despite its protected status, is in a sad state. Occupying the interior of Kep headland, it has no guest facilities. Access is via an 8km road open to 4WD vehicles. Activities include snorkeling excursions, fishing trips and seaborne visits to coastal mangrove groves.
  •    King Sihanouk's Palace On top of the hill northwest of Kep Beach is a palace built by King Sihanouk in the early 1990s. Before his overthrow in 1970, Kep was one of his favorite spots and he used to entertain visiting foreign dignitaries on an outlying island nicknamed Île des Ambassadeurs. The king may have harbored thoughts of retirement here but his poor health and Cambodia's political instability meant that he never actually stayed at the palace, which remains unfurnished.
  •    Mid-20th-century villas From Kep's northern roundabout, NH33A heads north past the mildewed shells of handsome mid-20th-century villas that speak of happier, carefree times and of the truly terribly Khmer Rouge years. Built according to the precepts of the modernist style, with clean lines, lots of horizontals and little adornment, they once played host to glittering jet-set parties
   
  How to go to and in Kampot & Kep:
  •    By Bus: To and From Phnom Penh: Via paved and in comparative good condition National Highway No 3 from Phnom Penh to Kampot and from there additional 25km to Kep. This road is more recommendable than the alternative National Highway No 2 leading to National Highway No 3 via Takeo province. The buses to Kampot departure each day at 7:30am and midday around 1:15pm from the central bus station near the central market. You may also take a bus directly to Kep taking National Highway No 2 and for the last strip Major Road No 31, which is a little bumpy. The prices with a usual old air-con bus for both ways are around US$4 per a person and trip. The trip usually takes approx. 4-5h.
  •    By Taxis: Going from Phnom Penh with a shared taxi, you can find one at Phsar Dumkor in Phnom Penh or opposite of central bus station. The prices are between $26-$32 pp for a private taxi. The 3 hours ride is shorter as with the slowly bus.
  •    By Motorbike: Via paved and in comparative good condition National Highway No 3 from Phnom Penh to Kampot and from there additional 25km to Kep via Major Road No 33. This road is more recommendable than the alternative National Highway No 2 leading to National Highway No 3 via Takeo province. You may also head directly to Kep taking National Highway No 2 and for the last strip Major Road No 31, which is a little bumpy and dusty during dry season.
  
  Getting Around: Kampot is a tiny riverside town, all easily traversed on foot (if you can pull yourself from the guesthouse hammock). Kep is just 25km (16 miles) east of Kampot, easily reached on rented motorbike, motorbike taxi, or motorbike with trailer (called tuk-tuk).
  
  Best time to visit
  Located near the sea, Kampot and Ket’s weather is much more temperature than the island destinations. The cool season runs from November to February and of course this is the best time to visit the area. High temperatures during this time are usually under 30 degree celsius with nighttime lows sometimes dipping below 20 degree celsius.