Top Cities

• VIENTIANE
  

  Being one of the few world capitals that lack the look and feel of what most Westerners would consider a ‘city’, Vientianeis somewhere between a big town and a diminutive city. If you drive into town, you might not even realize when you're actually in the city proper, as Vientiane blends seamlessly with the countryside and you’ll find yourself slowly won over by the easy charms of this evolving backwater. The city may reveal its beauty less readily than Luang Prabang, but spend a few days on its unusual sights and excellent food at sunset by the river would soon make you feel at home here.
  
  Things to do in Vientiane:
  •    Gaze up at the tapered golden stupa of Pha That Luang which is the symbol of Lao nationhood in Vientiane.
  •    Check out the concrete folly that is Xieng Khuan, the bizarre park full of dozens of giant Buddhist and Hindu scultures, 20km from Vientiane.
  •    Treat yourself to a traditional herbal sauna and massage at Vientiane’s Wat Sok Pa Luang.
  •    Trek to waterfalls, waeve baskets or spy on wild elephants at Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area.
  •    Tube, climb, raft, kayak, cycle or walk through the rivers and imposing karst terrain around Vang Vieng.
   
  Where to go in Vientiane:
  •    Buddha Park is a fanciful sculpture garden full of Hindu and Buddhist statues, and it is a concrete testament to the obsession of Luang Pu, a shamanist priest who conceived and started building the park in the 1950s. The statues are captivating, whether they are snarling, reposing, saving maidens in distress or carrying them to their doom. The huge reclining Buddha is outstanding; you can climb on its arm for a photo. There is also a large pumpkin-esque dome to climb, itself filled with sculptures. The dusty and bumpy bus ride here provides clear views of Thailand across the Mekong.
  •    Phra That Luang is the preeminent stupa in Lao, a national symbol that's an imposing 44m high. The original, built in 1566 by King Setthathirat over the ruins of a 12th-century Khmer temple, was destroyed when the Siamese sacked Vientiane in 1828. It was rebuilt by the French in 1900 but was torn down in 1930 and remodeled to become what you see today. As you approach, the statue in front depicts Setthathirat. After you enter the first courtyard, look to the left to see a sacred Bodhi tree, the same variety Buddha sat under to achieve enlightenment. It has a tall, slim trunk, and the shape of its foliage is almost perfectly round. According to the Laotians, Bodhi trees appear only in sacred places; legend has it that the site originally housed a stupa containing a piece of the Buddha's breastbone. The stupa is built in stages. On the second level, there are 30 small stupas, representing the 30 Buddhist perfections, or stages to enlightenment. That Luang is the site of one ofLaos's most important temple festivals, which takes place in early November.
  •    Ho Phra Keo Built by King Setthathirat in 1565, Phra Keo was constructed to house an emerald Buddha that the king took from Thailand (which the Thais took back in 1779). Today there are no monks in residence, and it is actually a museum of religious art, including a Khmer stone Buddha and a wooden copy of the famous Luang Prabang Buddha. In the garden, there's a transplanted jar from the Plain of Jars.
  •    Wat Si Muang Another 1566 Setthathirat creation, this wat houses the foundation pillar of the city. According to legend, a pregnant woman named Nang Si, inspired by the gods to sacrifice herself, jumped into the pit right before the stone was lowered. She has now become a sort of patron saint for the city. The temple is very popular as a result and is the site of a colorful procession 2 days before the That Luang festival every November.
  •    Wat Si Saket Completed in 1818, Wat Si Saket was the only temple in Vientiane to survive the pillaging of the city by the Siamese in 1828, perhaps because the temple was built in traditional Thai style. It is renowned for the more than 10,000 Buddha images, of all shapes and sizes, in every possible nook and cranny. Look for Buddha characteristics that are unique toLaos: the standing or ‘praying for rain’ Buddha; or the pose with arms up and palms facing forward, the "stop fighting" or ‘calling for peace’ Buddha. The pose in which Buddha points the right hand downward signifies a rejection of evil and a calling to mother earth for wisdom and assistance. Lao Buddhas also have exaggerated nipples and square noses, to emphasize that Buddha is no longer human.
  •    Wat Ong Teu is in a particularly auspicious location, surrounded by four temples: Wat Inpeng to the north, Wat Mixay to the south, Wat Haysok to the east, and Wat Chan to the west. Its name comes from its most famous inhabitant, a huge (ongteu) bronze Buddha. The temple, famous for its beautifully carved wooden facade, was built in the early 16th century and rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries. Home to the Patriarch of Lao Buddhism, the temple also serves as a national center for Buddhist studies.
  •    Lao National Musuem Housed in an interesting old colonial structure that was once used for government offices, the Museum of the Revolution has photos, artifacts, and re-creations of the Lao struggle for independence against the French and Americans. The exhibits are rather scanty, barely scratching the surface of such a complicated subject, but most are in English. Archaeological findings and maps presented on the first floor help make a visit here worthwhile. One of the most interesting exhibits is in the last room before you exit, sort of a Laos trade and commodities exhibit of produce, handiwork, and manufactured goods. Though dated, it will give you some idea of Laos's geography and commerce.
  •    Patuxay Completed in 1968 and dedicated to those who fought in the war of independence against the French, the monument is an arch modeled on the Parisian Arc de Triomphe. Its detailing is typically Lao, however, with many kinnari figures (half woman, half bird). It's an imposing sight, and you can climb up for a good city view. Once on top, numerous signs forbid the use of cameras, but no one seems to take heed. This is the town's main teenage strutting ground and is crowded on weekends.
  •    Morning Market is the hub of local commerce and really where the action is. Here you can find anything from the Thai version of a Britney Spears CD to a Buddhist keepsake from one of the tourist shops or trinket salesmen. Great deals can be found on Lao silks if you bargain hard. This is the Laos version of mall culture, and sometimes the everyday tool department or stationery area gives a special glimpse into daily life. Enjoy a good wander and hassle-free shopping. There are few touts, but, as always in crowded places, beware of your valuables.
  •    That Dam (Black Stupa) This ancient stupa was probably constructed in the 15th century or even earlier, though it has never been dated. It is rumored to be the resting place of a mighty seven-headed naga, or dragon that protected the local residents during the Thai invasion in the early 1800s.
   
  How to go to and in Vientiane:
  •    By Plane: Vientiane is Laos' major international hub for air travel. If you're arriving via Wattay International Airport inVientiane, a taxi to town will cost 50,000 kip (US$5).
  •    By Bus: The Northern Bus Station connects Vientiane with all destinations in Laos. The bus station at the Morning Market, which is called Talat Sao in Lao, is the hub for local buses as well as those linking Vientiane with Nong Khai and Udonthani inThailand via the Friendship Bridge.
  
  Getting Around:
  The city lies on the east side of the Mekong River (the western bank is Thailand). The main streets, running parallel to each other, are Samsenthai and Setthathirat, with Lane Xang, the north-south artery, intersecting them. The heart of the city is Nam Phu Fountain.
  Central Vientiane is easily covered on foot. You can also hire a tuk-tuk, a covered cart behind a motorbike, or a jumbo, a bigger version of the same. Drivers charge about US$1 around town; settle the price before you ride. Bikes are a great way to get around town. Both bicycle and motorcycle rentals are available at many storefronts along Fa Ngum Road near the river or along Samsenthai. You can also rent a car with driver for US$60 per day around town.
  
  Best time to visit:
  The weather is usually rainy from May/June to September/October. The dry, cool season occurs from October to February with temperatures ranging from 30 Degree Celcius in the day to 15 Degree Celcius at night. The temperatures begin to rise in March and April reaching as high as 40Degree Celcius, until the cool rainy season begins.
  
   
• LUANG PRABANG
  

  Even the most jaded travelers can easily be lured by the color which is the first of Luang Prabang’s virtues. The scent of street-side fresh coffee, river activity, produce markets and spicy food soon follows. And then the broader aesthetics begin to unfold. Encircled by mountains, and set 700m above sea level, Luang Prabang is now Laos’ foremost tourist showpiece. The brew of gleaming temple roofs, crumbling French provincial architecture and multiethnic inhabitants will absolutely make avisit here like a true vacation from vacation.
  
  Things to do in Luang Prabang:
  •    Wander the historic temples, brick alleys and French colonial villas of the Unesco World Heritage city. Start your day at dawn, when the temple drums break the early morning silence and saffron-clad monks walk the misty streets to receive rice from the townspeople for their daily meal. Buddhists believe that by giving rice in this life ("making merit"), they are ensuring that they will not go hungry in their next life.
  •    Hop on a boat and drink up the scenery along the Mekong River, Nam Ou or Nam Tha.
  •    Trek to waterfalls and tribal villages in the Nam Ha National Protected Area.
  •     Contemplate the huge, enigmatic stone jars at the Plain of Jars.
  •    Ride elephants and visit Thai Lu villages in Hongsa.
  •    Marvel at the Pathet Lao’s former cave city in Vieng Xai, a legacy of the Second Indochina War.
  
  Where to go in Luang Prabang:
  •    Wat Xieng Thong is the premier wat of Luang Prabang. Built in 1560 by King Say Setthathirat, it is situated at the tip of Luang Prabang's peninsula where it juts out into the Mekong. Xieng Thong survived numerous invading armies, making its facade one of the oldest originals in the city. To the left of the main temple, find the "red chapel" and its rare statue of a reclining Buddha that dates back to the temple's construction. The statue is one of the premier Buddha images in the country, with an attitude sublime. The glass mosaics adorning all external buildings date from only the 1950s, but are fun depictions of popular folk tales and Buddhist history. Facing the courtyard from the temple steps, the building on the right contains the funeral chariot of King Sisavang Vong with its seven-headed naga (snake) decor. The chariot was carved by venerated Lao sculptor Thid Tun. There are also some artifacts inside, including ancient marionettes.
  •    Wat Wisunarat/Visoun is known for its absolutely huge golden Buddha in the sim, the largest in town at up to 6m tall. The wat was constructed in 1512 and held the famous Pra Bang Buddha from 1513 to 1894. On the grounds facing the sim is the famous That Makmo, or watermelon stupa, a survivor since 1504. Wat Aham is a few steps away from the Wisunalat sim.
  •    Wat Ahan Located between Wat Wisunarat and the Nam Khan, Wat Aham was formerly the residence of the Sangkharat (Supreme Patriarch of Lao Buddhism). Two large banyan trees grace the grounds which are semi deserted except for the occasional devotee who comes to make offerings to the town’s most important spirit shrine at the base of the trees.
  •    Wat Mai is one of the jewels of Luang Prabang. Its golden bas-relief facade tells the story of Phravet, one of the last avatars, or reincarnations, of the Buddha. This wat held the Pra Bang Buddha from 1894 until 1947. Stop by at 5:30pm for the evening prayers, when the monks chant in harmony.
  •    Royal Palace Museum Built for King Sisavang Vong from 1904 to 1909, it was the royal residence until the Pathet Lao seized control of the country in 1975. The last Lao king, Sisavang Vattana, and his family were exiled to a remote region in the northern part of the country and never heard from again. The palace remains as a repository of treasures, rather scanty but still interesting. You can begin your tour by walking the length of the long porch; the gated open room to your right has one of the museum's top attractions, a replica of a golden standing Buddha that was a gift to King Fa Ngum from a Khmer king.
  •    Don't miss the busts of the last dynasty of kings. The central throne room is done in colorful glass mosaics dating from a renovation in the 1930s. Past the throne rooms is a compound of large, spartan bedrooms with what little finery was left after the departure of the last king. The temple at the compound entrance is a gilded wedding cake, and the large Soviet-made statue of Sisavang Vong, the first king under the Lao constitution, has a stiff raised fist like a caricature of Lenin.
  •    Pak Ou Caves The longtail-boat ride on the Mekong is alone a worthy day trip. This stretch of river is lovely and from the base of the cave entrance, you get a view of the high cliffs and swirling water of the Nam Ou River as it joins the Mekong. Inside the caves are enshrined a pantheon of Buddhist statuary. A half-day trip often includes a visit to a weaving village or the Lao Whiskey village, where you'll have a chance to try some really potent local brew.
  •    Kuangsi Waterfall was a tower of champagne-glass limestone formations until the whole structure fell in on itself in 2003. The falls are still beautiful, but less so. The ride here, however, is quite spectacular. Another option, Tad Se Waterfall, is 21km from town and good for swimming, even if it's less spectacular in height than Kuangsi. During the rainy season, the falls are stunning.
  •    Phu Si Mount Rising from the center of town, Phousi has temples scattered on all sides of its slopes and a panoramic view of the entire town from its top. That Chomsi Stupa, built in 1804, is its crowning glory. Taking the path to the northeast, you will pass Wat Tham Phousi, which has a large-bellied Buddha, Kaccayana. Wat Phra Bat Nua, farther down, has a yard-long footprint of the Buddha. Be prepared for the 355 steps to get there. Try to make the hike, which will take about 2 hours with sightseeing, in the early morning or late afternoon to escape the sun's burning rays.
   
  How to get to Luang Prabang:
  •    By Plane: Lao Airlines has daily flights from Vientiane to Luang Prabang for about US$52 one-way. Two flights weekly connect Luang Prabang with Xieng Khouang (US$40) and Pakse (US$135). There are no direct flights to the far north; for that, you'll need to fly directly from Vientiane.
  The Luang Prabang International Airport handles international flights from Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Hanoi, and Siem Reap. On Lao Airlines, the cost is US$118 to Bangkok, US$72 to Chiang Mai, US$115 to Hanoi, and US$135 to Siem Reap. On Thai Air, Chiang Mai flights are US$85. Visas are available on arrival at the airport. Airport transport is best arranged through any hotel. Otherwise, hop a shared, three-wheeled jumbo for US$1 or so.
  •    By Bus/Minivan: The overland route to Luang Prabang from Vientiane takes about 10 hours by public bus. There are international warnings about travel on this stretch, and though it has been quiet in recent years, you should ask around before hitting the road. The trip is bumpy and winding, and local buses are often packed. However, the jaw-dropping scenery, past the mountains and limestone formations at Vang Vieng and several Hmong hill villages, is well worth it. The bus costs about US$9 and has a few morning departures from Vientiane's Northern Bus Station. Luang Prabang's NaLuang Bus Station is a US$1 per person shared tuk-tuk ride from the town center. There are also daily connections to Phonsavan US$9 and the far north.
  •    By Car/Jeep: The mountain route by rented vehicle takes 7 hours and costs about US$230, plus US$60 per day, plus extra for the driver's meals and accommodations.
  •    By Boat: Boat travel to and from Luang Prabang is quite popular. The local boat from Houayxay (near the Thai border) departs for Luang Prabang every morning. Arrive early at the riverside quay. The trip costs about US$12 and takes about 1 1/2 days to complete. You'll stay overnight in Pak Beng, a village with basic accommodations, before arriving in Luang Prabang in the afternoon of the next day.
  Speedboats also connect Luang Prabang with Houayxay if they get enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile. Speedboat travel is uncomfortable, noisy, and dangerous, but it cuts the travel time to around 7 hours.
  
  Best time to visit:
  Luang Prabang’s northerly location gives it more pronounced seasons than other Southeast Asian destinations, although the climate is still is decidedly tropical. As in Thailand to the south, there is a cool and dry season from November to March, which is the best time to visit. The monsoon begins in April, and peaks in August, Luang Prabang has a greater temperature range than more southerly cities. Nights can be very cold from December to February, while days in March and April can be extremely hot, before the rains arrive.